The Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring 2027 showcases a diverse array of emerging brands, each with its own unique story and aesthetic. Here's a closer look at some of the ones to watch, offering a blend of personal commentary and analysis.
Hyacyn: A Brand Born from Lockdown Creativity
Hyacyn, founded by Tobias Ulmer, emerged during the pandemic when he turned to altering sneakers. Ulmer's background in club culture and early electro music influences his design philosophy. He emphasizes cut and volume, playing with silhouettes and proportions. For Spring 2027, he draws inspiration from the 'punk electro avant garde' era, blending Berlin and New York influences. The brand's debut in Paris on June 26th at 6:26 p.m. is a playful nod to Ulmer's visual sense of humor. With a focus on suiting and collaborations, Hyacyn is gaining traction, particularly in Asia, with a mix of American and Turkish production.
LAD/: A Story of Connection and Cultural Pride
LAD/, founded by Ladislas Mande, is a brand deeply rooted in his experiences in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Mande's six-month stay in Kinshasa inspired the 'Kin La Belle' collection, paying homage to the city's 1980s sartorial glory. The brand's soft tailoring and travel-ready silhouettes reflect a love letter to Congo's cosmopolitan past. LAD/ is a fresh chapter in Mande's fashion career, with a focus on Japanese craftsmanship and a potential future expansion into womenswear. The label's name is a playful reference to Mande's own identity, with a graphic twist.
Paz: Silence and Longevity in Fashion
Paz, a Los Angeles-based brand, promises a unique approach to fashion. Founded in silence over two years, without social media or an archive, the brand aims to create garments that are lived in, fought in, and passed down. The designer, rumored to have ties to Vetements and KidSuper, emphasizes the importance of the work standing on its own merit. Paz's inaugural collection, produced in Milan, blends tailoring, utility, and protective forms, targeting a customer who values longevity over fleeting trends. The brand's venue for the debut show, a 13th-century abbey, further emphasizes its focus on timelessness.
Song for the Mute: A Sibling Bond in Fashion
Song for the Mute, founded by Melvin Tanaya and Lyna Ty, is a testament to their long-standing friendship. The brand's journey began as a hobby, creating graphic T-shirts, and has since grown into a successful fashion label. The duo's classicism, mixed with their impish sense of finishings and textures, has caught the eye of global stockists. Song for the Mute's collaborations with Adidas Originals and Birkenstock have further solidified their presence. The brand's prices range from affordable T-shirts to leather jackets, catering to a wide audience.
Rescha: Embracing the In-Between
Rescha, founded by Charlotte Chowdhury, is a brand born from the designer's experience of feeling suspended between two cultures. Chowdhury embraces the idea of creating a unique space, blending French and Indian influences. The brand's hybrid aesthetic, inspired by fabric historian Krishna Riboud, challenges traditional boundaries between East and West, masculine and feminine. Rescha's collections are a dialogue between unexpected fabric pairings and rich craft techniques. The brand's prices range from scarves to leather jackets, with a focus on quality and craftsmanship.